Dress-form.



VITO ETTORE DURSO, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

DRESS-FORM.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 29,1913.

Application filed May 18, 1911. Serial No. 628,049.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, VITO E'r'ronn DUnso,

a subject of the King of Italy, residing at.

New York, county and State of New York, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Dress-Forms, of which the following is a full,clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanyingdrawings, forming a part of this specification.

My invention relates to dress forms, and has for its object theproduction of an adjustable frame, capable of a variety of ad justmentsto suit the outer contour of different human figures.

Another object of this invention, is to provide a dress form havingmeans for reproducing several of the imperfections most commonly foundin different individuals, such as unevenness of shoulders, gibbosities,etc., in a ready manner, andhaving means for readily reproducing all themeasurements which are usually taken on the human body for the purposesof tailoring.

A still further object of this invention, is to provide a dressform'composed of different sections adjustable independently one fromthe other, having many improved means of different design for quicklyeffecting all the desired adjustments.

With these and other objects in View, as will more fully appear as thedescription proceeds, this invention consists of certain constructionsand arrangements of parts, the novel and useful points of which will behereinafter described and claimed in the appended claims.

The drawings show my improved dress form adjusted to the contour of amans figure, but it can be readily understood that the same may assumeany desired shape, and that with few additions of minor im portance thesame construction may be adopted for forms to be used in connection withthe making and measuring of womens dresses.

Referring to said drawings, Figure 1 is a front view in elevation of myimproved dress form, partly broken away to more fully show the difierentadjustments, and showing one of the arms mounted in position. Fig. 2 isa side view in elevation of the same, also partly broken away for thepurposes of illustration; Fig. 3 is a partial view in elevation of theback of my dress form, showing the construction of neck and shoulders;Fig. 4, is a detail front view in elevation in an enlarged scale of themeans shown in the other drawings for expanding or contracting thevarious lines of the con tour; Fig. 5 is a side view in elevation,partly sectional, of the same; and Fig. 6 is a plan view of the same,from the top, partly broken away.

This dress form can be considered as composed of an upper partcomprising neck, shoulders and attachments for the arms: two detachablearms and a body part composed of a plurality of. collapsible beltsconnected all along their circumference by collapsible links of the samecharacter. These belts are attached at four points to the frame, thesefour points being those at which the adjustments take place.

In the drawings 1 is a standard to which a neck frame 2 is pivotallyattached at its upper part by means of a pin 3. 4 is a collar attachedto said standard 1 bearing a screw stud 5. i

6 is an arm projecting from neck frame 2 which can be fixed at differentpoints on screw stud 5 by means of check-nuts 7, 8, according to theangle to which it is desired to set neck frame 2. This neck frame hasfour hollow arms or projections, one, 9, at the front, one, 10, at theback and two, '11, 12 at the sides. Four blocks, 13, 14, 15 16 areslidably mounted respectively in each projection, 9, 1O, 11, 12 and areprovided with means for fixing them at any desired point. Block 13,consists of a front plate 17, pro vided with a tubular projection 18 onthe rear and with ribs 19 adapted to fit into the groove of projection9.

20 are two arms pivotally mounted in 21, at the end of projection 18 andconnected at their free ends by a toggle joint composed of two links 22in such a manner that when said toggle joint is expanded, arms 20 areforced against the upper and lower inside surfaces of projection 9, andwill firmly hold block 13 in that position. Vhen the toggle joint isreleased the friction of the arms 20 against the surfaces ceases andblock 13 is free to move longitudinally within its housing. The togglejoint is operated by means of a rod 23 connected at 24 to links 22 andhaving a button 25- on the outside of plate 17. 26 is a collar fixed tosaid rod 23, and 27 is a spring inserted within tubular projection 18,abutting against said collar and against the inside face of plate 17.The pressure normally exerted by said spring 27 against collar 26, keepslinks 22 in their expanded position, thus causing the locking of block13 to projection 9. Button 25 is beveled so that by swinging lever 28around its fulcrum pin 29 forcing the same between button 25 and plate17, said button 25 is forced outward pulling rod 23 and consequentlycausing the release of links 22. In this position block 13 can be slidback or forth by hand to the position at which it is desired to fix it,when lever 28 is swung back and spring 27 is free to again expand links22. Blocks 14, 15, 16 are operated in a similar manner and arerespectively provided with plates 30, 31, 32 similar to plate 17 ofsliding block 13. These plates are of a suitable height and constitutesections of the neck of the dress form. Each is provided with two sidelugs 33, to which by means of pins 29, 29 are pivotally attached theends of four collapsible belts 34, connecting one plate to the next andcompleting the circumference of the neck. These collapsible belts arecomposed of sets of two links of an even length pivoted at their centralpoints forming an X, being in their turn pivotally connected with thetwo ends of the next X, the result being an articulated belt which issusceptible of being expanded or contracted at will according to a wellknown principle of mechanical construction. The lower points of belts 34bear supplementary links 35 pivotally connected in couples at 36, curvedso as to reproduce the curve of the attachment of the neck to the restof the body. Front plate 17 and rear plate 30 are respectively providedat their lower part with means for attaching graduated tapes 37, 38extending longitudinally along the front and back of the body. The meansfor attaching the same to plates 17, 30 can be of any suitable designand are shown in the drawings as consisting of riveted studs 39, 40.Tapes 37, 38 must be flexible and at the same time strong as they areintended to sustain the weight of all the other parts as will behereinafter described; I find steel to be for this purpose a mostsatisfactory material to use.

Freely moving along standard 1 are provided a number of body frames 41,42, 43, 44, 45 each having four projections similar to those of neckframe 2 and each guided by a bushing 46. In the drawings frame 41,corresponds to the chest line, frame 43 to the waist line and frame 45to the hip line, while frames 42, 44 correspond to intermediate lines.Each projection of the above mentioned body frames is provided with asliding block similar in operation to the sliding block 13, allthesesliding blocks being operated in an analogous manner. I shall rep resentthem all with the same numeral 47 having plates 48 on which arepivotally mounted levers 49 at points 50; said levers 49 correspondingin their operation to lever 28 of sliding block 13. Rods 51 operatingthe toggle joints of sliding blocks 47 terminate with a clip plate 52,the rear face of which is cam shaped so that when levers 49 are lowered,plates 52 pull out rods 51, releasing the corresponding toggle joint. Atthe points 50, 50 of plates 48 are attached the ends of collapsiblebelts 53, which connect each plate 48 to the next one, four belts 53,completing the entire circumference of the body. Said belts 53'correspond in shape and operation to belts 34 described, but to insuretheir taking a proper curve, they are reinforced on the back by springs54 attached to the rear of plates 48. Plates 52 are provided with clips55 of any suitable design adapted to clamp tapes 37, 38, holdingtherefore bod-y frames 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, hanging from the same at anydesired height. For the purposes of tailoring measur-ementsare alsousually needed for the circumferenee of the chest line, the waist lineand the hip line, and plates 52 corresponding to these lines aretherefore provided with auxiliary clips 56 adapted to clamp graduatedtape 57, transversely extending around the body of the dress form. Saidtapes 57 are attached at points 58 on side plates 48 and are ofsuflicient length to cover the range of different sizes of human figuresthat the dress form will be called to reproduce.

Side sliding blocks 47 of the chest line are provided with uprightprojections 59, holding hollow frames 60 corresponding to the lower sideof the arm. Sliding blocks 47 are slidably mounted in said frames 60,one at the front and one at the rear and are provided with plates 48,operating levers 49 and lugs 50' projecting on the inward side of saidplates 48". Lugs 50' are connected by means of collapsible belts 53 withpoints 50, 50 of plates 48, corresponding to upper body frame 54 whichhas only one front and one rear projection and has no side projections,constituting an intermediate line between the neck and the chest line.Lugs 50 are also connected by means of collapsible belts 53 to point 39in plate 17.

The shoulders of my improved dress form are constructed in such a way asto allow their proper adjustment as to their width and as to theirvertical and horizontal angle in relation to the body. To blocks 15, 16are horizontally pivoted in 61, two tubular parts 62 inserted onvertical bolts 63, the head of which is inserted in a horizontal slot 64of an arm 65 attached to standard 1 and is slidably movable therein.Said parts (32 are each provided with a lug 66 to which is pivotallyattached by means of horizontal pivot 67 a plate 68, shaped so as toreproduce the inner part of the shoulder. To parts 62, is also'attacheda graduated segment 69 on which an arrow 70 fixed to parts 68 marks theinclination of the shoulder. On bolts (33 are also pivotally mounteddirectly underneath part 62, parts 71, each being provided with alug 72and horizontal pivot 73. On each pivot 73 is mounted a hollow frame 74bearing a slidable block 7 5 similar in all respects in its operation tothe sliding blocks previously described and bearing on top a curvedsegment 76 reproducing the outer line of the shoulder. Segment 76 isprovided with a horizontal pivot 77 to which is attached plate 78 shapedso as to reproduce the outer part of the shoulder.

Plates 78 are provided with slots 7 9 on the front and rear while plates68 are provided with pins 80 and screws 81 passing through slots 7 9,guiding the relative longitudinal motion of plates 78 on plates 68;screws 81 are further used for clamping plates 78 at the desired pointswhen adjusting the width of the shoulders. The inclination of theshoulders is also regulated by the clamping of said plates by means ofscrews 81, as when screws 81 are loosened, frame 74 can be swung to thedesired degree of inclination, to be held therein by screwing up thesaid screws.

To projections 59, underneath frames 60, are attached flexible graduatedtapes 82, 83,

- hanging therefrom; to these the side sliding blocks are attached bymeans of clips 55 at the desired height. Plates 48 on the front arefurther provided with graduated tapes 85 at points 84, 84: said tapesfreely hanging down and being used for measuring the circumference ofthe arm and the distance from points 84, 84 to the rear central point ofthe neck, 40.

To plates 48" on the rear are pivotally attached parts 86, mounted onvertical studs 87, and clamped in any desired position by means of nuts88. Same are operated by means of handles 89, and have a shape suitableto force outward the framework at the sides of the back, reproducing theprotuberances which are usually to be found at these points in imperfecthuman figures. Another common imperfection is a gibbosity usually foundin more or less degree on the back at about the level of the shoulders;this can be reproduced by pulling out sliding block 48 clamped toprojection 54 in'the manner described, thus pulling out collapsibleresponding central sliding block. In a similar manner, the variouscollapsible belts are connected to each other by a plurality ofcollapsible links 120, completing the surface of the body. These Iprefer to construct in a manner similar to that described for the belts,with a number of X portions pivoted to each other, owing to the easewith which said links contract and expand without friction. The samecould be made in the manner shown in the construction of the arms, oftwo parts in a slidable relation to each other, as will be hereinafterdescribed; but an important point in my improved construction is thatthese collapsible links are pivotally connected to the various belts. Iam aware that there are devices of this character having collapsiblelinks connecting the various belts, but they are either rigidlyconnected to the same, or mounted so as to be free to slide thereon. Thewide differences existing in the conformation of human bodies, render itnecessary that the various belts be expanded and collapsed according toinstances, in a wide variety of combinations, and the links connectingthe belts must be capable of assuming different inclinations. A rigidconnection between the links.

and the belts will not allow the free expansion of the belts, while asliclable connection is liable to offer some frictional resistance tothe same. I have found that a pivoted connection does away with theseinconveniences, and allows the different belts to assume whateverexpansion or contraction it will be necessary to have, in order toreproduce the dimensions of any particular body; the links freelydisposing themselves so as to reproduce the outer surface of the body.In constructing my improved dress form, it is advisable however to makesaid connecting links 120 rather narrow in width, and in a numbersufficient to fairly fill the spaces existing between the various belts;links of the shape shown allow a considerable adjustment in thedistances between the belts to be made in a short time, and in an easymanner.

Pivots 7 7 are projecting at 77, and afford a convenient means forpivotally hanging removable arm holders 90, by means of hooks 90. Tothese are pivotally attached to vertical pivot 91, parts 92 and to theseare attached parts 92, to which are in their turn attached the armsproper of the device.

Each arm is composed of a longitudinal band 93 pivoted at 9-1 to part 92and to which is attached a circular adjustable band 95; a longitudinalband 96 to which is attached a circular adjustable band 97, mounted in aslidable relation toward band 93 and clamped in position by means of ascrew 98. Said screw 98 also holds a circular adjustable band 99. At thelower end of band 96 is attached a bracket 100 to which is pivotedanother bracket 101 at the point 102. Bracket 101 holds a longitudinalband 103 and a circular adjustable band 10%. Another longitudinal band105 holds a circular adjustable band 106 and is mounted in slidablerelation toward band 103, being clamped in position by means of a screw107 holding a circular adjustable band 108. Circular adjustable bands95, 99, 97, 104-, 108, 106 are each constituted by a flexible striphaving the two ends overlapping each other, one end being provided witha slot 109 and being clamped in position by a screw 110. Bands 95, 99,97, and bands 10%, 108, 106 are further connected between themselves bycollapsible links consisting of a sheath part 111 and inner slidingparts 112 pivotally connected to said bands.

From the foregoing description it can be seen that each arm is composedof an upper and a lower section, each independently ad justable in itscircumference at various points and also adjustable in its length. Theconnections described for connecting two portions of the arm and forconnecting the upper portion to the body, I have also found to besufficient for the purposes of this device.

The construction of this device is such, that the same is capable of awide range of adjustments in a short time. In fact having to reproducethe figure of a given individual and having adjusted the neck to theproper inclination and circumference, the various belt lines are clampedto tapes 37, 38, 82, 83 according to distances, clips 55 being released.The chest, the waist and hip line are then expanded or contracted untilcorresponding to measurements when they are clamped in position on theirrespective frames. Tapes 57 are also clamped in position by clips 56. Byloosening screws 81, the width and the vertical inclination of theshoulders can be adjusted independently one from the other and set atthe desired point by tightening again screws 81. Thumb nuts 113 willclamp the shoulders in position when the same have been independentlyadjusted in relation to their horizontal angle, which is found to bedifferent in different individuals. The width of the arm attachments canbe regulated by moving sliding blocks 47. The protuberances andgibbosities at the back if any, can be adjusted by means of parts 86 and48. The arms are then adjusted and hung on pivots 7 7 The number of thevarious belt lines is arbitrary, provided the distances between them areshort enough to allow a fair ap proximation in reproducing the varioussections of the human body; the collapsible links connecting one belt toanother, as 1 1. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, of aplurality of frames slidably arranged thereon, each frame carrying acircumferent-ially collapsible and expansible belt, means for holdingsaid belts at desired distances, and a plurality of longitudinallycollapsible and expansible links connecting said belts, said links beingautomatically collapsed or expanded as said belts are moved toward oraway from each other.

2. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, of a plurality offrames slidably arranged thereon, each frame carrying acircumferentially collapsible and expansible belt, each belt beingcomposed of centrally pivoted X-shaped elements pivotally connected attheir ends, means for holding said belts at desired distances, and aplurality of longitudinally collapsible and expansible links connectingsaid belts, said links being automatically collapsed or expanded as saidbelts are moved toward or away from each other.

3. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, of a plurality offrames slidably arranged thereon, each frame carrying acircumferentially collapsible and expansible belt, means for holdingsaid belts at desired distances, a plurality of longitudinallycollapsible and expansible links connecting said belts, said links beingautomatically collapsed or expanded as said belts are moved toward oraway from each other, and means for expanding or contracting said belts,substantially as described.

4. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, of an adjustableneck portion attached thereto, tapes depending from the front and rearparts of said neck portion, a plurality of frames slidably arranged uponsaid standard, each frame carrying a circumferentially collapsible andexpansible belt adapted to be clamped to said tapes, and a plurality oflongitudinally collapsible and expansible links connecting said belts,said links being automatically collapsed or expanded as the belts aremoved toward or away from each other.

5. In a dress form, the combination wit-h a standard, of a neck portionconsisting of a frame pivotally attached thereto, having four projectingarms, sliding blocks adjustably clamped to said arms, andcircumferentially collapsible and expansible belts connecting saidsliding blocks; substantially as described.

6. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, of an adjustableneck portion attached thereto, graduated tapes depending from the frontand rear parts of said neck portion, a plurality of frames slidably arranged upon said standard, each frame carrying a circumferentiallycollapsible and expansible belt adapted to be clamped to said tapes, anda plurality of longitudinally collapsible and expansible linksconnecting said belts, said links being automatically collapsed orexpanded as the belts are moved toward or away from each other, andmeans for expanding or contracting said belts, substantially asdescribed.

7. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with anadjustable neck portion attached thereto, of two shoulder parts eachcomposed of two plates slidably clamped to each other, the inner platesbeing horizontally pivoted at the sides of said neck portion, and theouter plates being horizontally pivoted to independently adjustablesupporting arms connected by a universal joint to said neck portion;substantially as described.

8. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with anadjustable neck portion attached thereto, of two shoulder partsvertically attachedto said neck por tion, means for clamping the same atdifferent angles, and means for measuring the inclination of saidshoulder parts; substantially as described.

9. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with anadjustable neck portion attached thereto, of two adjustable shoulderparts pivoted to said neck portion, tapes hanging down from the frontand rear parts of said neck portion, a part having four adjustableprojecting arms having the front and rear arms adjustably clamped tosaid tapes, transversely adjustable means mounted on the side projectingarms, form ing the base of the arm holes, and collapsible and expansiblelinks connecting said transversely adjustable means with the outer endsof the shoulders; substantially as described.

10. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with anadjustable neck portion attached thereto, of tapes hanging down from thefront and rear parts of said neck portion, a part slidable on saidstandard having front and rear adjustable arms clamped to said tapes,and having two adjustable side arms each bearing an additional hangingtape, a plurality of similar slidable parts having four adjustable armsslidably clamped to said four tapes, collapsible and expansible beltsconnecting the four arms of each slidable part, and a plurality'oflongitudinally collapsible and expansible links connecting said beltsand pivotally attached to the same; substantially as described.

11. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with aplurality of parts slidable thereon having four projecting arms, ofsliding blocks adjustably clamped to said projecting arms, collapsibleand ex pansible belts connecting said sliding blocks, graduated tapesattached to each sliding block at the chest, waist and hip lines,extending along the entire circumference of the dress form when fullyexpanded, and means for clamping said tapes to the other sliding blockson the same circumference; substantially as described.

12. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with an outeradjustable framework, of connections between said standard and saidframework, said connections including a hollow arm, a sliding block,toggle joint operated expanding arms clamping said sliding block to theinner surface of said hollow arm, a spring keeping said toggle jointnormally expanded, and means for releasing the same and for keeping itin a released position so as to allow the free motion of said slidingblock; substantially as described.

13. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with anadjustable neck portion attached thereto provided with longitudinallyhanging tapes, of circumferentially collapsible and expansive beltsconnected to each other by a plurality of collapsible and expansiblelinks, frames having four hollow arms slidably mounted on said standard,means connecting said belts to said frames, said means consisting of asliding block having expanding arms for clamping the same to the innersurface of said hollow arms, a toggle joint and a rod connected theretofor operating said expanding arms, a spring keeping said toggle jointnormally expanded, a cam-shaped plate attached to said rod and connectedto sections of said belts, a lever attached to said plate for operatingsaid rod, and means for clamping said plate to said tapes at differentheights; substantially as described.

14. In a dress form, the combination with a standard, and with an outeradjustable frame work comprising a plurality of collapsible andexpansible belts formed of X shaped elements pivotally attached to eachother, of arms outwardly extending from said standard, sliding blocksadjustably clamped to said belts, and springs attached to said slidingblocks for keeping said belts in an outwardly expanded position;substantially as described.

15. In a dress form, the combination with a standard of an adjustableneck portion relation to said standard and for fixing the same inposition; substantially as described.

VITO ETTORE DURSO.

pivotally attached thereto, tapes attached to said neck portion, anadjustable framework comprising expansible and collapsible belts clampedto said tapes and suspended there: to and connected to each other bycollapsible and expansible links, and means for adjusting theinclination of said neck portion in" lVitnesses Gnino SAoERnoTE, TULLIOV. SIARA.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

